Day 7 - Stranraer to Southport

Woke to horrible wet weather, it had to happen sometime, so on with all rain great. Its going to be a Long ride today to Southport though we do have the good fortune tonight of kindly being put up by a couple of bikers who have been supporting us.

First however is about an hour’s ride to Dumfries to finish of Day 6 and start Day 7. Also meeting a chap, James Docherty, who has a healthy check from some fund raising for us. Meeting him at a garden centre just next to the Peter Pan statue that was unveiled by Joanna Lumley, we were informed has a house nearby.

James rode for a while with us on his Triumph Tiger which was very similar to mine and I enjoyed keeping pace with him as he knew these roads intimately and new every corner.

Today was long and wet and when it came to Morecombe it took its toile and Paul `Scouse` had had enough and went his separate way, bye mate best of luck.

We pushed onto Southport and arrived at 8pm, 2 hours later and 12 hours of riding over.

Chris and his lady Ang, who kindly put us up for the night and did a wonderfull lunch for us. Ang has an autistic son much like Paul's.

Day 6 - Balmacara, near The Isle of Skye to Thistle Inn on Stranraer

Today we are travelling to yesterdays destination first, Fort William, then start Day 7 proper to Dumfries.

The above image shows you the scenes we had to enjour :-), Last nights temperature though did drop to 4 degrees, my nose was a little cold lol.

Not much to report today, weather looks like it will be a little wet though. Packed up and headed out to ride to Fort William for breakfast, 80 miles seems just down to road now when you’re covering hundreds.

Stopped briefly at a petrol station in Fort William, fuelled up and grabbed a chocolate bar then pushed on, not really eating well, doing the best we can though.

We decided to cut off Stranrear but by a wrong turn ended up heading there anyways. The weather was getting worse and we all felt we needed some R&R so we bundled into the nearest B&B which had, conveniently, a Pub down stairs, plus we needed a place to dry the tent out as well.

Once roomed we got to work rearranging the furniture and draping the walls with wet tents and making the place look like a parachute drying hanger. We soon noticed that the heaters didn't work nor the TV and in general the whole place had a dishevelled uncared air to it, the same can be said of our first impressions of the people.

Once set up in the room we navigated to the bar and where soon joined by some local lads curious as to who these strangers where. After chatting to them they shed some light on Stranrear's situation.

Due to the ferry port moving and prospects off the train being cancelled, job prospects in the area are dwindling and the education system is very poor. The lads we met where very enthusiastic to work and generally make a better life for themselves but they feel let down by the system and feel that the area has been forgotten by the economy. I whole heartedly wish them luck, really friendly people; just don’t judge the book by its cover.

After few drinks at the bar we had a good sleep.

Day 5 - Ardmair, near Ullapool to Balmacara, near The Isle of Skye

 

After filling up we heading out from Ullapool for the Isle of Skye. The back roads following as close as you can to the coast where for me the best I've ever been on no only for riding but the views and colours where stunning. But you have to ride a light bike here or without panniers or much luggage, else you will find it hard work as the Paul's have, however it’s still very rewarding

 

Filing up at Kinlochewe petrol station on the A832 half way through these wonderfull roads we befriended a lovely German lady called Petra riding a blue Suzuki Bandit who ended up staying with us most of the day as we found ourselves travelling the same route. A fascinating lady who has ridden all over Europe and Canada, it was an honour to have her along for part of our journey, I've swapped emails so hopefully there will be some rides in Europe with an experienced guide.

Applecross. Bikers with loaded up heavy bikes beware. Paul almost had a fit on the first hairpin on the way down. Applecross pass is fantastic; it reminded me of photos I've seen of the Himalayas. Fantastic views, steep hill climbs with technical cambers and long steep drops. I had loads of fun. For Paul though it was an uphill learning curve, forgive the puns lol. Paul mentioned that as we passed other bikers coming the other way they were giving him funny looks, he was soon to find out why. Even some American we bumped into mentioned we will have fun, though they were not specific, so we were happy in out ignorance. Getting up the steep slopes where ok but the decent was a trial. The first corner Paul didn’t realise how tight it was and had to do his best to break just before the steel barrier to the drop off, then holding this heavy bike he managed to get off pull the bike backwards uphill then steer it around a few feet. Get back on and finish the turn, after that the rest where OK, but he did have hardly any back brakes by the bottom of the decent.

We briefly rode on the Isle of Skye, the Northern peninsula, in a circuit. Stopping briefly at a beautiful waterfall looking back across the sea to where we started the morning ride.

We ended up the day free camping near the road on the mainland just a few miles south, but still in view, of the Skye Bridge and finally have an open fire to melt the marsh mellowed on.

The objective tonight was to get to Fort William, 77 miles South East. But after 12 hours riding even though we stopped for 10 minutes here and there, silly mistakes are starting to creep in so for our safety we've decided to stop and get some sleep. Some people have said this trip will not be challenging, I beg to differ, profusely if I had the energy lol.

Anyways, night all x x x

Day 4 - The Black Isle North of inverness to Ullapool via John O`groats

A pleasant sleep was had by all, despite Paul `Scouse`s` phone getting damp and ending up looking like the ring from the horror film of the same name.

 

The A9 up to John O`Groats went smoothly. Once there we got some good photos, a few including the Motorcycle News (MCN) to send on to them to hopefully be included in there next issue.

The Pauls where very impressed with Scotland so far and Caithness showing is beautiful side in the sun. However I knew the good views where only just starting, as I had been over the top of Scotland in February before after a spot of Snowboarding on Glen Coe, I drove the opposite way we were taking today, so knew what to expect.

Back on the road and after being reassured by bikers coming the other way not to worry about fuel, as we were worried about the distance between fuel stops, we pressed on to Durness where I was the only one to stop and fill up, as I like to know I've got a full tank, then we ploughed on to down the West coast to Ullapool through a spatter of rain.

With tiredness kicking in I spotted a campsite near Loch Canaird shoreline with a beautiful view. Reception was closed till 9am the next morning, so we pitched up anyway with the usual plan to be away early.

It was decided that it might be a good idea to have an open fire so I swooped of to the nearest garage in Ullapool to grab a large bag of fire kindling as the nearest wood to hand was the benches which we reckoned would be a tad anti-social of us to use. By the time I got back however the rain had caught up with us so the open fire plan was scrapped till the next day. None the less Scouse managed to rustle up an omelette for everyone which was very welcome, top fella.

Around 10pm silence fell then like roaring train the expected storm front that one of the locals had informed us about, pounced our tents and tried its best to wrap them around our ears till 5am.

I managed to get some sleep but Paul unfortunately only got an hour, so looking a bit white and haggard in the morning. We packed up only having some chocolate for breakfast and headed to the Petrol station to start Day 5 proper.

 

Day 3 - Monifieth, Dundee to The Black Isle (Moredor) North of Inverness

Up early, packed and ready to go, we met and got to know two new folks, Derrick & Donna (the devil's daughter) over breakfast, who had pre-arranged to meet us at the campsite.

Not such a good day for Paul 'Scouse' however, whilst spending sometime in the showing he knocked out a replacement tooth he had made up down the drain plug! Apparently £2000 of work down the plug hole!

A hefty breakfast was had and after a few photos we were off around the Grampian coast, following Derrick since he knows these parts best.

 

Stopped off at Aberdeen, where Donna headed back, traffic was a little heavy there due to an oil company fest.

Then stopped off at Peterhead and a few small fishing villages along the way, getting more and more beautiful and scenic.

Stopped shortly in Inverness where we said our goodbyes to Derrick, who has short 150m / 3 hour ride back home and stared over at the Black Isle with the bridge to get to it looking very much like the land of Mordor, and with the prospect of our first wild camping, axe murderers where racing through our imagination. The entrance to the Black Isles by roads didn’t help fill us with joys either, see below.

 

Our night on the Black isle turned out to be anything but a horror film. I managed to find a farm house and ask about the use of a likely field I spotted at the bottom of there drive. Turned out what we thought was a farm was in fact a private house, with manicured lawns. Still we pressed on up the drive and knocked on the door to be answered my an English gent by the name of 'Tim' who suggested we camp on his lawn, as long as we were off first thing and with the free use of a tap a very comfortable night was had by all. Even though Paul 'Scouse's' phone had gotten damp from his shower at the campsite the night before leaving the screen with a black water circle looking uncannily like The Ring. Good job I was kind and didn’t show him some YouTube excerpts from the film, I wouldn't do a thing like that, would I? ;-)

I was going to start a section on what we see on the road but it's a bit grizzly, so far 3 foxes, 1 badger and a few unfortunate cats and TBC, one mushed squirrel! By me, guilty face :-(.

On to the highlands proper tomorrow and up and over to Ullapool and our 2nd night free camping.

In Addition;

No mushed squirrel was spotted on the way back of the Black Isle, may be there’s a satisfied fox somewhere?

Day 2 - Withernsea to Monifieth, Dundee

Today's run has been a gruelling 450 mile, 10-11 hours.

Up at 6am packed and breakfasted and bugged out at 07:30. We had to stop for 1.5 hrs. before the end of our scheduled stop of Day 1 the day before so this day's ride will have to be a long one to catch up.

The first roads out of Withernsea where lovely and flowing bends with great views, best done after a good night’s sleep, deserve a revisit. Glad we did those this morning rather than last night when we we're tiered.

Windy today again, but once you expect it and with some confidence it's not a problem. Both the Paul's bikes are sports tourers, fully loaded with luggage that are heavy with a low centre of gravity so you tend to be more heavy on the brakes going into corners then throttling up to pick up the pace on the straights. Whereas my bike is more a duel sports, i.e. trails frame, off road frame with a smaller engine, no planners and a higher centre of gravity, I can flick it lightly around corners maintaining my speed through the bends. Therefore I can't wait to get at the west coast of Scotland's twisty roads where my bike will come into its own.

Around 10:30 today we ended Day 1`s scheduled route and started Day 2 - Whitby to Dundee. Not much to comment on, good weather, clear roads, the Paul's where enjoying gliding around the flowing roads. Mr Newman getting to know his triumph better. Stopped a few times but today was all for catching up as we had pre-arranged to meet the following morning, two other riders, one doing his own charity ride and following us on our route to Inverness, so no photo opportunities today.

Got to our Dundee stop for the night around 8pm, where the owner stayed to let us in and allowed us to pitch in a sheltered spot behind the office. Luxury camping, showers, Chinese food down the road and with the prospect of a hearty breakfast at the camps cafe for not much in the morning, hard life this ain't, so far lol

In Addition;

 

Paul had a small incident and dropped the Triumph as he was getting on at a Petrol Station. Was bound to happen on a trip like this, may be not so early on but it is to be expected.

 

 

We intended to cross over the Mersey on the Manchester Transporter Bridge; however we arrived to discover that it’s currently under overhaul and will not be open to the public for another 40 days, so a small detour was made.
 

Day 1 - Start - Kings Lynn to Long Meadows Holiday Park, Withernsea

 

Phew, Day 1 over with...

 

We where scheduled to stop at Runswick Bay however we've ended up running 1.5 hours late...oops.

 

So we've got a lot of catching up to do tomorrow on our way to Dundee. The day's riding has gone well, Paul's triumph has run very economically. The only issue has been wind buffering. Going over the Humber Bridge was very entertaining. I was leading today's leg and since my bikes the tallest the others recon the angle my bike was leaning into the wind was at 45 degrees minimum!, all I know was I was finding it very entertaining, laughing away in my helmet like a mad'un...mmm maybe a head check's in order!

 

Tonight we find ourselves camped at a park resort in Withernsea, directed to us by the few locals we could find on the sea front.

 

 

 

 

With our riding boots already a bit wify we are enduring some kids entertainers in the resorts restaurant waiting our grub. Start time tomorrow will be, 5am, to catch up, fun times lol.

By the by the sea was eventually sighted at Scarborough, up untill then we where starting to think it was a funny coastal ride having not seen the sea.

 

 

In addition;

 

The night before myself and Paul Newman where to set off Paul 'Scouse' (Last name TBC) notified Paul of his intention to join our voyage around the UK. Paul seemed a keen chap, from Swaffham, riding a Suzuki Bandit, see photo far left.